The Basics of Surfing

Hawaiian Style


Parts of a Wave

How We Measure the Wave

Parts of a Surfboard

Nose and Tail Shapes

How To Duck Dive

Proper Paddling Position

Some Hawaiian Surfing Slang

Parts of a Wave


How We Measure the Size of the Wave

Here in Hawaii we measure the Size of a wave by its back. It's face may be as much as twice the size of it's back. So in other words a 3ft. wave's face would be 6ft. High.


Parts of a Surfboard

  Nose- Tip of your board.
Stringer-Wooden strip within the foam of your surfboard
Tail- The bottom or your board the backend.
Rail- The rolled edges or your surfboard. The curve.
Deck- The front end or the surface of the surfboard
Skeg- The fins at the bottom of the board. Helps with controll they cut into the water. Their are many different kinds. They can vary in size, shape, and number (1-3)
Rocker- the upward curve of the nose. This is so when your surfing you won't do a pearl.
Bottom- The bottom of your board.

How To Duck Dive

Step One) As the wave breaks in from of you paddle as hard as you can straight for it. When the wave is about 2 feet in front of you, grab the nose (refer to parts of a surfboard) and push it down under the wave as hard as you can.

Step Two) Once the nose is completly under the wave, immediatly push the tail (refer to parts of a surfboard) down under the wave with your feet. Now all of your board is under the wave.

Step Three) When the wave passes over you, point the nose up. You should pop up out of the water.

Proper Paddling Position

To me the hardest part to surfing is catching the wave. (Standing is a breeze) An important part to catching the wave is paddling. The Proper paddling position is: Head up, remember to arch your back, and position yourself on the board so that the nose is barely over the water. Practice in the white wash so you know your place on your board. You wouldn't want to do a nose dive. Those are very emarrassing! (I know!)

Some Hawaiian Surfing Slang

Barrel: Tube, Pipe, the hollow part of the wave.

Brah: Used to address someone.

Cut Back: When your riding the wave and you swing around and go back for more.

Ding: Puka or dent in your board

Frontside: Surfing with the front of your body toward the wave.

Grind: To eat food, or the "Eat it" or "Wipe out"

Garenz: Gauranteed, a sure thing.

Gremmie: A begginer. Geek or nerd.

Hitting the lip: This is a when you make an aggresive turn of the top of the wave.

Ho Cuz!: Watch out!

Locals: Regulars or residents of a given location or surf spot

Nose Dive: When your nose goes under and wipe out. Also knows as a Pearl.

Over the falls: To be sucked up and over a wave then driven under and swirled around.


Pearl: See Nose Dive

Puka: Hole, puncture.
Shaka: Motion by hand by making a fist an d leaving your pinky and thumb up. Meaning wassup, right on, Solid.
Unreal: Immpossible!
The Drop: The most critical part of a ride. Your at the top of the wave and trying to get the bottom without falling. Once you've done this you can do some tricks.

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